BNI Boulder (E Boulder)
This is the tall boulder to the right, partially sitting on top of the D and F boulders. Some of the problems here really do feel like routes, and would not forgive a fall. The problems are described left to right, starting at the cave path between the D and F boulders.



86. Chahala 5c**
This steep problem starts just right of Snooker Shelf, on the roof of the cave, below a trio of good incuts. Jump to the first, then campus upwards to the top one. Reach right and pull round the arete onto the ledge.


87. Harvester of Eyes 4a
The next four problems start from the ledge on top of the F boulder, which is reached by squeezing up through the gap right of Juggie, on the F boulder.This problem climbs the open groove on the left of this face.


88. Astronomy 3b
The ribs and grooves in the centre of the face are straightforward and give the best descent route from this boulder.


89. Deo Gratis 5b*
The wall left of the arete is straightforward, apart from one hard and bold move to stand on a tiny foothold.


90. Imposter Arete 4c**
The high arete on the left of the huge slab gives excellent, steady climbing on small but good holds.


91. B.N.I. Direct 5c**
Traverse across the slab to the sharp foothold as for BNI, then move up and left and finish easily up the centre of the slab.


92. B.N.I. 5c*** Neil Macniven 1960s
Start at the base of Imposter arete and traverse across the slab to the obvious good foothold. Make a difficult move to swing right onto a small flake, then continue up and right to finish up Pendulum. Delicate and committing.


93. Very Ape 6b Dave MacLeod 1998
Start up the squeeze descent route, then pull out right on big undercuts. Reach over the lip to a small finger hold and pullover onto the BNI slab using mono pockets. Finish up B.N.I. Direct.


94. B.N.I. Direct Start 6c/7a (Font 7b+)* Malcolm Smith 1994
Use two small crimps on the very base of the slab to make a hard reach to the sharp hold above on the slab. Finish up BNI. Desperate for the short.


95. The Elbow Basher 6c (Font 7b+)** Dave MacLeod 1997
A brutal traverse across the cave under the slab. Start spanned between a big flat edge on the left and an incut crimp on the right. Use a small pinch to reach undercuts at the top of a tiny slab. Traverse these rightwards round the corner with difficulty (bruised shins likely). In a very cramped position, reach sidepulls (head jam useful!) and use these to finish up the crack of Good Nicks. Could just as easily have been called the head or shin basher!


96. Good Nicks 6a*** Willie Todd 1978
The testpiece at this grade. Start underneath the right arete of the BNI slab. Climb the short finger crack to its top, then make a difficult span right to an edge on the arete. A brilliant move to match the edge permits a swing round to the small flake on the slab. Finish up BNI. Jumping from the arete is fine but try not to fall backwards! The sit start to the crack is 6b.

NEW: You're Nicked! 6c (Font 7b)** Dave MacLeod 2001
A direct version of Good Nicks. From the finger lock pull up to small edges directly above and make a hard move to the nick on the arete. Finish up Good Nicks.

97. Pendulum 4c***
Excellent climbing up the big flake right of the arete. Pull onto a ledge and climb the flake steeply on jugs. Use the block at its top to pull round onto the slab. Pause for a minute to take in the situation (are you bouldering or soloing!) then rockover to reach the top. Popular but still deserves more attention. It is possible to finish right, into the black V-groove. The old guide gives this variation 5a, but frightening 5c is more appropriate! Span right from the top of the flake.


98. Nadjilation E6 6b** Dave MacLeod 1998
This intimidating route climbs the grossly overhanging wall round to the right of Pendulum. Start standing on the razor sharp boulder under the right hand side of the wall. Climb the wall aggressively, using a fine hold to make a big lunge to the top (crux). Only a few moves, but falling off could be catatstrophic!


99. Jump **
A more exciting (and rapid) descent of the BNI boulder. Jump from the top of Nadjilation to ledges on the main face.


100. Jump II ***
Not as long as the above problem, but much scarier! Jump across the gap between the D and E boulders to the top of Suckers Slab. If you actually enjoyed this, then proceed to the next problem!


101. Jump Challenge III***
Remains unclimbed but for how long? Reverse Jump (ie dyno direct to the top of Nadjilation!). Other excellent jump challenges in this vicinity include the jump from the slabby main face to the top of the arete right of Pendulum or from the top of Pendulum to "Fever Pitch" on the main face.