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Dave MacLeod
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Dave MacLeod on Dressed For Success, Font 7b+
pic: Claire Geary
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Boulders
Eagle Boulder (A Boulder)
This huge boulder is the first to be reached from the approach path. The routes are described from left to right, starting at the easy descent route, which is the arete facing the castle, on the left of the large slab.
Warm Up Wall (B Boulder)
The wall down and to the right of the A Boulder (below Home Rule Boulder) has a vertical wall which faces down the Clyde. This has good problems and is also an excellent spot for warming up circuits.
Home Rule Boulder (C Boulder)
This sits on top of the B boulder and is characterised by a smooth, graffiti covered wall, facing Dumbarton. The descent is by the arete facing the castle (The Beast). Routes are described from left to right, starting with the descent.
Sucker's Boulder (D Boulder)
The boulder to the right of the Home Rule Boulder. The problems are described from left to right, starting on the smooth overhanging wall facing the distillery.
BNI Boulder (E Boulder)
This is the tall boulder to the right, partially sitting on top of the D and F boulders. Some of the problems here really do feel like routes, and would not forgive a fall. The problems are described left to right, starting at the cave path between the D and F boulders.
F Boulder
This is the boulder to the right of the D Boulder, underneath the BNI Boulder. It features a very steep, smooth wall facing Dumbarton, and a slabby face looking down the Clyde. This boulder has some of Dumby's (and Scotland's) hardest problems. The problems are described from left to right, starting at the cave between the D and F boulders.
G Boulders
This is the trio of small boulders below the F Boulder. All three problems climb the seaward face of the largest central boulder.
The Sea Boulder (H Boulder)
The obvious lone boulder on the shore has several good problems in the easier grades and is also a good spot to warm up. The seaward face is tidal (just) and its base is finely polished by the action of the sea (as if Dumby was'nt polished enough!). Problems are described left to right, starting at the side facing Dumbarton.
Everdry Wall 1
The small overhanging wall below Appliance of Violence on the main face gives some everdry bouldering, but it is not as good as it looks and is rarely used. However the wall below Longbow is good for warming up.
Everdry Wall 2
The overhanging wall left of Benny's Route is also everdry and gives good shelter from the (frequent) rain. This wall is brilliant for doing stamina circuits, which can be tailored to the correct difficulty by missing out holds or sections.
 
 
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