Eagle Boulder (A Boulder)
This huge boulder is the first to be reached from the approach path. The routes are described from left to right, starting at the easy descent route, which is the arete facing the castle, on the left of the large slab.




1. Rankin's Bajin 4a
Start 1 metre right of the descent route and climb straight up the slab.


2. Soixante Neuf 4b*
Climb the slab direct on good holds, starting two metres right of the descent route.


3. Pas Mal 4a*
Climb the slab just left of No.1 Route, joining that route at half height.


4. No.1 Route 3a*
The large left slanting ramp gives the easiest route on the slab.


5. Left Direct 4a**
Start up Pas Mal, then climb rightwards from the ramp on good holds.



6. Centre direct 5a*
Delicate climbing up the centre of the slab between Left and Right direct.


7. Right Direct 4b
Climb straight up from the flake of No.2 Route.


8. No. 2 Route 3a*
The right trending ramp and flake gives a pleasant problem.


9. No.2 Direct 4c
A tiny problem, climbing the small white groove at the start of the overhanging wall.


10. Pullover 5a*
Start one metre to the right. Reach the jug on the lip and pull over using a flat hold up and left. Short and sharp.


11. Runs on Potato Power 6c (Font 7a)* Dave MacLeod 1998
Start on two undercuts.Slap with the right hand to the finger hold directly above. Rockover leftwards to the long, vertical sidepull then slap for a sloper on the lip and pull over.


12. Kev's Problem 6c (Font 7a)* Kevin Grant 1996
Start on the twin undercuts and slap with the left hand to the finger hold. Continue straight up into Pullover.


13. Bust My Chops 6c (Font 7b)** Dave MacLeod 1998
Start two metres right of Pullover at the hip height break. Move up to two small crimps in the next break and make a hard slap left for a large, right facing sloper. Finish directly. Footholds on the right are allowed.

NEW: Bust My Chops (right hand) 6c (Font 7b/7b+)* Dave MacLeod 2001
Follow the above problem to the second break, then use minute holds on the lip of the overhanging wall to move up right to a flat hold in a horizontal, near the crack of Zig Zag. Finish up this.



14. Zig Zag 5b***
This classic, varied problem weaves through the stepped roofs at the right end of the wall. Start left of the bush and climb steeply to a jug. Move immediately left, then layback upwards until a rockover left onto the slab is possible. Finish directly.

A good variation climbs this problem to the jug, then traverses the lip leftwards into the last problem at 6a. Another variation starts lower, at an undercut (good footholds) moving up with a slap for the slopey break (6b). A sit down start is also 6b and it is possible to finish right onto the small slab of Shadow at 6a.


15. Tam's Route 5c
This problem has been included although it is inaccessable due to the tree at the moment. It climbs the overhanging groove five metres right of Zig Zag.

NEW: Fouk Yee 6c (Font 7b)* Andrew Earl 2001
A good but slightly eliminate problem climbing the short arete right of Zig Zag. From the large sloper use a two finger side pull, and edges on the arete to reach the sloping ledge above. Mantle onto this and finish up Zig Zag.

16. Shadow E5 6c** Andy Gallagher 1992
Round to the right is an intimidating overhanging wall. On the left of this, is an extremely overhanging black groove. Climb the groove with difficulty to its top. Make a hard and technical move up and left to a good hold and finish up the small slab. Commiting and scary, get some good spotters!


17. Trick of the Vale E7 6c** Andy Gallagher 1992
Climb the groove as for Shadow and move right onto a ledge. This provides a good rest but also a good place to get scared! (retreat possible to the right or by jumping). Continue up the centre of the wall direct, heading for the apex, to a difficult mantleshelf on to the dirty slab. Even more scary than Shadow but low in the E7 grade.


18. High Flyer 6b/c J. Christie 1980s
From a ledge on the left side of the cave make a ridiculous leap for a good hold and continue to the lip of the overhang. Desperate high jumping for the short!

NEW: Silverback 7a (Font 7c)*** Dave MacLeod 2001
An awesome and desperate problem climbing the true line of the arete. From the starting holds on Gorilla, move left on tiny edges to the obvious lone crimp on the arete. Lunge to the protruding hold at the top and pull over.



19. Gorilla 6b*** Pete Greenwell 1978
A brilliant classic, climbing the wildly overhanging arete to the right of the cave. From the starting crimps, slap for the large, smooth layaway above. Make a long reach left to a jug on the lip, then swing! Use a hold up and right to rock over onto the slab. Jumping off from the lip definitely doesn't count!


20. Gorilla Warfare 6b** Mike Rudden 2000
From the jug of Gorilla hand traverse the lip of the boulder leftwards to pull over on good jugs.

21. Gorilla Hanging Start 6c (Font 7a) Darren Stevenson 2000
Use the finger edge under the lip and the lowest edge on the wall (just above Gorilla's starting foothold) to pull on. Make two hard moves to gain the starting edges of Gorilla and finish up this. Now attempt the unclimbed start from the big sloper further back in the cave.

22. Neil's Extention 6c (Font 7a+) Neil Busby 2000
An alternative start to the above problem, starting from the right at a low crimp and sidepull (under roof). Gain the finger edge of the hanging start by a blind slap and finish up this. Climb Gorilla to the layaway, then slap directly upwards to the hold on the lip.


24. Shin Sekai 6c (Font 7b)* Michael Conner 1999
A difficult and surprisingly bold problem, climbing the wall just right of Gorilla. Start at an edge and sidepull and make a rather large dyno to an obvious hold just below the lip. Watch those ankles if you miss!

NEW: Hoops 7a (Font 7c)*** Dave MacLeod 2001
Start two metres right of Shin Sekai. Move up to a finger jug and make a very long rockover to the crimp on top of the "ear" feature. Move left on the lip to finish at better holds.


25. Unamed 6c/7a (Font 7b/c)** Richard Bingham 1999
Start five metres right of Gorilla below a jug on the wall. Jump for the jug and move right to another jug. Use a small crimp above to make a huge span left to a hold on the lip. Desperate for the short.


26. Dressed for Success 6c (Font 7b+)** Dave MacLeod 1999
An excellent, sustained traverse. Start at the jugs left of Supinator and traverse right, past Supinator. A difficult sequence leads to a finish up 2HB


27. Supinator 6a* Mark Worsley 1978
The obvious overhanging crack in the centre of the wall is bold with a difficult move at the top (crux).


28. 2HB 6a***
Another classic. Start just left of (or in!) the tree at an undercut. Move up and make a difficult rockover for a small undercut beak-like hold in the crack. Thankfully good edges and thank god jugs lie above the bulge. A sitting start to this from a sharp crozzly sidepull is a good 6b.


29. A Ford Flash 6c
Again this problem is currently inaccessible due to the tree but has been included in case it one day disappears. Climb a small groove right of 2HB and make a long reach left to a good hold.

NEW: Oceans 6c (Font 7b+)*** Dave MacLeod 2001
Climb the first couple of moves of the shallow groove of 1990 Traverse then move left to an undercut. Use this to reach holds up and left (crux). Slap upwards on crimps, then make a long and bold reach left to a protruding edge to finish.


30. 1990 Traverse 6c (Font 7b)* Andy Gallagher 1990
A hard and technical traverse which has seen few repeats. Start in a groove to the right of the tree right of 2HB. From the lowest holds, layback up, then traverse right on small edges (crux) to gain better holds. Continue right, finishing up The Blue Meanie.


31. Snappy 6b* Andy Gallagher 1996
To the right of the tree is a steep, blank wall. This problem climbs the wall above the sharp, threatening, ankle height ledge, left of The Blue Meanie. Climb up and make a difficult move left to a jug. Finish staight up, with a long move to another jug. Bold.


32. Unamed 6b* J. Christie 1990s
Start one metre left of The Blue Meanie, heading directly for a large undercling pinch. Use this to boldly go where few have gone before!


33. The Blue Meanie 5c***
This problem climbs the wall above the slabby rock at the top of the path. Start at a jug and use one of two or three different ways to gain an inset sloper below a bulge. Finish leftwards on good jugs. A little unnerving, spotter useful.


34. PTO 5a*
Climb the short wall and bulge a few metres left of the descent route, with a long reach from an undercut.