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Dave
MacLeod on More Chicken, Font 7a
pic: Claire Geary |
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Andy
Yuill on The Whip Arete, E2 5b
pic: Dave MacLeod |
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| Boulders |
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Home Rule Boulder (C Boulder)
This sits on top of the B boulder and is characterised by a
smooth, graffiti covered wall, facing Dumbarton. The descent
is by the arete facing the castle (The Beast). Routes are described
from left to right, starting with the descent.
41. The Beast 4b
This is the arete facing the castle, climbed on the left hand
side, and then reversed.
42. The Brute 5a
The wall just right of the arete is gained from the smaller
of two rocks below the boulder.
43. Valkyrie 5a
Climb the shallow corner above the two rocks and finish up the
slab.
44. Pas Encore 5b*
A good problem, if a bit dirty. Climb the strenuous bulge above
the larger rock and finish up the slab.
45. Crimp! 6a* Stephen Richardson 2000
Start below the obvious jutting nose. From the right side of
the larger rock, gain a slot hold under the roof. Climb straight
up, just left of the arete and use a flat hold and small crimp
on the slab to pull over with difficulty.
46. More Chicken 6c (Font 7a)* Dave MacLeod 1999
An eliminate problem climbing the actual arete left of Head
Butt. Starting as for the previous problem, from the slot hold,
use a tiny edge on the nose to slap desperately up the edge
of the nose. Holds to the left are out of bounds. Good if brushed,
poor if not!
47. Head Butt 6c (Font 7a) Andy Gallagher 1993
Start at Pas Encore, but traverse right, and pull round into
the corner on the right of the nose. Slap awkwardly up this
(head used on the first ascent!) to finish. Give it a brush
first. The wall between this problem and Mugsy has now been
climbed, with a big slap to gain the slopey ledge, finishing
up the difficult wall above without using holds on Mugsy (Malky,
Font 7b, Dave MacLeod 2000).
48. Mugsy 6c (Font 7a)*** Dave Cuthbertson 1980s
The classic at the grade. Start at a good jug (good for one
arm pull ups!) on the lip of the cave. Jump for a sloping hold
and use a left foot heel hook to gain an excellent incut. Finish
rightwards into Mestizo or better still leftwards on small edges
(6b).
49. Mugsy Traverse 6c (Font 7b)*** Andy Gallagher 1993
Start at the left of the cave. Traverse the handrail in the
roof rightwards and use a heel/toe lock to move up into Mugsy,
finishing up this. To extend the fun even more, this problem
can be started from a line of good holds behind the rocks in
the depths of the cave. Linking this start into the left hand
finish to Mugsy ups the grade to 7b+ (or an F8a route!).
50. Mestizo 6a*** Gary Latter 1985
A brilliant problem climbing the left arete of the graffiti
covered wall. Climb the arete to a good hold and move left on
edges. A thin but excellent rockover leads to the easy groove
and the top. Good landing.
51. Mestizo Sit Start 6c (Font 7a+)** Dave MacLeod 2000
Start at sidepulls and make two slaps to gain the handrail.
Use heelhooks to make improbable moves on poor holds and finish
up Mestizo. Mat and spotter useful.
52. Mestizo Traverse 6c (Font 7b)** Andy Gallagher 1997
Start as for the Mugsy Traverse, but continue along the handrail
to the arete. A hard move allows a finish up Mestizo.
53. Knowledge is Power 6c (Font 7b/7b+)** Dave MacLeod
1998
A good, sustained problem. Start at two small crimps in the
roof of the cave, below the starting jug of Mugsy. Make a desperate
slap and swing onto the jug, then follow the Mestizo Traverse
to the hard move on the arete. Now reverse the Home Rule Low
Traverse and finish up Home Rule. Now take a couple of days
rest!
54. Physical Graffiti E5 6b** Gary Latter 1985
Bold and fingery climbing up the left side of the smooth wall,
moving slightly rightwards near the top. Committing if you climb
past the good hold at half height. The first few moves up to
the good hold is a worthwhile 6a problem in its own right.
55. Home Rule 6a**
Climb the right side of the wall to the left end of a handrail.
Move right along this and finish past the jammed block. A long
rockover, which is a little bit harder for the short. Awkward
landing. The dirty direct finish is also 6a.
56. Home Rule High Traverse 6a**
Fingery, sustained and technical (i.e. hard!). Start up Home
Rule and traverse left along a line of crimps and make a perplexing
move to gain Mestizo. Finish up this.
57. Home Rule Low Traverse 6c (Font 7a)* Andy Gallagher
1995
From the arete right of Home Rule, traverse left with increasing
difficulty to a cross through move to gain Mestizo (crux). Finish
up this. Thin climbing.
58. Bob's Problem 6a* Robert Ewen 2000
Start just left of Presence on the horizontal edge. Pull up
and catch the sloper beside the arete then continue to the handrail.
59. Presence 5c*
Climb the bold arete on the right of the graffiti covered wall,
with one scary move to reach the handrail. Will your spotter
have the courage to catch you if you fall!
60. Route Royale E3 5c**
An intimidating trip across the wall to the right of Presence.
The climbing is never hard or commiting, but is technical and
very bold. Start on the edge of the platform. Traverse right
across the wall past a groove and move up right to the arete.
Rock over into a niche on the arete and continue easily to the
top. The traverse can also be gained from directly below (6a).
The groove itself has also been climbed at E4 5c.
61. Royal Arete 6a Andy Gallagher 1996
Climb the blunt arete directly to join Route Royale near the
top. Bold.
62. The Whip E2 5b**
Climb the right side of the blunt arete until it is possible
to use good holds to move rightwards into the obvious shallow
groove. Climb this until a scary, thin move left leads to ledges
and the top. Guaranteed to raise the pulse! Especially if you
take the direct finish over the bulge (5c).
63. Unamed 6b*
Start hanging from a good hold in the roof under the start of
The Whip (or sitting down on the left). Move to a hold on the
lip, then slap right to a huge and good sidepull. Use this to
climb the small arete and pull over on small crimps.
64. The Switch 5a Brian Shields 1960s
A left slanting line between The Whip and Valhalla. 5b if finished
by the bulge on the right. The first ascent was done in Vibrams!
65. Valhalla HVS 4c*
The shallow fault above the junction of the two boulders. Brige
up the gap and use a good jug to pull onto the wall. Climb the
groove to a technical exit. Another very bold problem.
66. The Beauty 5a
Climb the bulging wall just left of the descent arete.
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