 |
 |
Dumby
on Sea
pic: Dave MacLeod |
|
|
|
| |
 |
Andy
Yuill on Imposter Arete, 4c
pic: Dave MacLeod |
|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
Introduction
Sitting in the Clyde near the town of Dumbarton, this 70 metre
high volcanic plug is one of Scotland's finest outcrops. Combining
excellent, extensive and well developed bouldering on the awesome
basalt boulders with spectacular climbing on the main face,
it offers an intensely varied and challenging climbing experience.
The character of the crag is somewhat unique, and changes dramatically
depending on when you visit. Summer evenings bring a relaxed
and social atmosphere to the bouldering circuit. During the
winter, the crag takes on an intimidating and lonely feel.
"Dumby" has always retained a reputation for danger and seriousness.
The Lowland Outcrops guide mentions that some climber's "blood
runs cold at the mere mention" of the place. While it is true
that some of the landings are bad and the locals are
occasionally trying, most feel this adds to the individual quality
of the crag. Actually, most of the "neds" are very friendly
and amusing.
 |
| Dumby
has always retained a reputation for danger and seriousness.
The Lowland Outcrops guide mentions that some climber's
blood runs cold at the mere mention of the place. |
 |
The boulder problems feature technical and extremely varied
climbing, from one move wonders to E7 solos! The smooth, fine
grained basalt can be rather polished at its worst, but often
has excellent friction, especially in the frequent cool and
breezy weather. There are many excellent problems at all grades,
with a lot to offer any climber.
The routes are again varied. The bolted sport climbs offer mostly
fingery wall climbs at a good range of grades. The trad routes
offer both well protected routes following crack lines and bold
face climbs. Almost all the routes feature spectacular exposure
disproportionate to their length, with a very pleasant outlook
down the Clyde estuary.
Year round climbing is possible (route as well as bouldering)
and the crag is regularly used in winter. The boulders dry very
quickly after rain, as do most of the routes. Even the crack
lines may be climbed in winter, given a day or two to dry. March
and April are excellent months for friction, but conditions
are frequently good all year. Midges are rarely a problem, except
late on during still summer evenings. This combined with the
ease of access from Glasgow means that the crag is very popular,
and has a dedicated and enthusiastic following.
The nearby sport venue of Dumbuck is a small but good and unusual
spot. Most of the routes are 7c or above and for the 7c/8a climber
there are some classics not to be missed. The climbing features
continuous 50 degree overhanging steepness with short and sustained
routes. The 6c+/7a routes are less steep and are definitely
worth a visit.
From Glasgow follow the A82 to the Little Chef and turn off
for Dumbarton on the A814. Take the second left after Dumbarton
East train station. Follow this to a small car park on the right.
From here the alleyway leads round the rock to the boulders.
There are frequent trains from Glasgow taking 25 minutes to
Dumbarton East station. The shop on the road down to the Rock
sells Irn Bru and other less important supplies.
|
|
|
|
|
