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Topos
Eagle Boulder (A Boulder)
This huge boulder is the first to be reached from the approach
path. The routes are described from left to right, starting
at the easy descent route, which is the arete facing the castle,
on the left of the large slab.
1. Rankin's Bajin 4a
Start 1 metre right of the descent route and climb straight
up the slab.
2. Soixante Neuf 4b*
Climb the slab direct on good holds, starting 2 metres right
of the descent route.
3. Pas Mal 4a*
Climb the slab just left of No.1 Route, joining that route at
half height.
4. No.1 Route 3a*
The large left slanting ramp gives the easiest route on the
slab.
5. Left Direct 4a**
Start up Pas Mal, then climb rightwards from the ramp on good
holds.
6. Centre direct 5a*
Delicate climbing up the centre of the slab between Left and
Right direct.
7. Right Direct 4b
Climb straight up from the flake of No.2 Route.
8. No. 2 Route 3a*
The right trending ramp and flake gives a pleasant problem.
9. No.2 Direct 4c
A tiny problem, climbing the small white groove at the start
of the overhanging wall.
10. Pullover 5a*
Start 1 metre to the right. Reach the jug on the lip and pull
over using a flat hold up and left. Short and sharp.
11. Runs on Potato Power 6c (Font 7a)* Dave MacLeod 1998
Start on two undercuts.Slap with the right hand to the finger
hold directly above. Rockover leftwards to the long, vertical
sidepull then slap for a sloper on the lip and pull over.
12. Kev's Problem 6c (Font 7a)* Kevin Grant 1996
Start on the twin undercuts and slap with the left hand to the
finger hold. Continue straight up into Pullover.
13. Bust My Chops 6c (Font 7b)** Dave MacLeod 1998
Start 2 metres right of Pullover at the hip height break. Move
up to 2 small crimps in the next break and make a hard slap
left for a large, right facing sloper. Finish directly. Footholds
on the right are allowed.
14. Zig Zag 5b***
This classic, varied problem weaves through the stepped roofs
at the right end of the wall. Start left of the bush and climb
steeply to a jug. Move immediately left, then layback upwards
until a rockover left onto the slab is possible. Finish directly.
A good variation climbs this problem to the jug, then traverses
the lip leftwards into the last problem at 6a. Another variation
starts lower, at an undercut (good footholds) moving up with
a slap for the slopey break (6b). A sit down start is also 6b,
and it is possible to finish right onto the small slab of Shadow
at 6a.
15. Tam's Route 5c
This problem has been included although it is inaccessable due
to the tree at the moment. It climbs the overhanging groove
5 metres right of Zig Zag.
16. Shadow E5 6c** Andy Gallagher 1992
Round to the right is an intimidating overhanging wall. On the
left of this, is an extremely overhanging black groove. Climb
the groove with difficulty to its top. Make a hard and technical
move up and left to a good hold and finish up the small slab.
Commiting and scary, get some good spotters!
17. Trick of the Vale E7 6c** Andy Gallagher 1992
Climb the groove as for Shadow, and move right onto a ledge.
This provides a good rest, but also a good place to get scared!
(retreat possible to the right or by jumping). Continue up the
centre of the wall direct, heading for the apex, to a difficult
mantleshelf on to the dirty slab. Even more scary than Shadow,
but low in the E7 grade.
18. High Flyer 6b/c J. Christie 1980s
From a ledge on the left side of the cave, make a ridiculous
leap for a good hold and continue to the lip of the overhang.
Desperate high jumping for the short!
19. Gorilla 6b*** Pete Greenwell 1978
A brilliant classic, climbing the wildly overhanging arete to
the right of the cave. From the starting crimps, slap for the
large, smooth layaway above. Make a long reach left to a jug
on the lip, then swing! Use a hold up and right to rock over
onto the slab. Jumping off from the lip definetly doesn't count!
20. Gorilla Warfare 6b** Mike Rudden 2000
From the jug of Gorilla, hand traverse the lip of the boulder
leftwards to pull over on good jugs.
21. Gorilla Hanging Start 6c (Font 7a) Darren Stevenson
2000
Use the finger edge under the lip and the lowest edge on the
wall (just above Gorilla's starting foothold) to pull on. Make
two hard moves to gain the starting edges of Gorilla and finish
up this. Now attempt the unclimbed start from the big sloper
further back in the cave.
22. Neil's Extention 6c (Font 7a+) Neil Busby 2000
An alternative start to the above problem, starting from the
right at a low crimp and sidepull (under roof). Gain the finger
edge of the hanging start by a blind slap and finish up this.
Climb Gorilla to the layaway, then slap directly upwards to
the hold on the lip.
24. Shin Sekai 6c (Font 7b)* Michael Conner 1999
A difficult and surprisingly bold problem, climbing the wall
just right of Gorilla. Start at an edge and sidepull and make
a rather large dyno to an obvious hold just below the lip. Watch
those ankles if you miss!
25. Unamed 6c/7a (Font 7b/c)** Richard Bingham 1999
Start 5 metres right of Gorilla below a jug on the wall. Jump
for the jug and move right to another jug. Use a small crimp
above to make a huge span left to a hold on the lip. Desperate
for the short.
26. Dressed for Success 6c (Font 7b+)** Dave MacLeod
1999
An exellent, sustained traverse. Start at the jugs left of Supinator
and traverse right, past Supinator. A difficult sequence leads
to a finish up 2HB
27. Supinator 6a* Mark Worsley 1978
The obvious overhanging crack in the centre of the wall is bold,
with a difficult move at the top (crux).
28. 2HB 6a***
Another classic. Start just left of (or in!) the tree at an
undercut. Move up and make a difficult rockover for a small
undercut beak-like hold in the crack. Thankfully, good edges
and thank god jugs lie above the bulge.
29. A Ford Flash 6c
Again, this problem is currently inaccessible due to the tree,
but has been included in case it one day disappears. Climb a
small groove right of 2HB and make a long reach left to a good
hold.
30. 1990 Traverse 6c (Font 7b)* Andy Gallagher 1990
A hard and technical traverse which has seen few repeats. Start
in a groove to the right of the tree right of 2HB. From the
lowest holds, layback up, then traverse right on small edges
(crux) to gain better holds. continue right, finishing up The
Blue Meanie.
31. Snappy 6b* Andy Gallagher 1996
To the right of the tree is a steep, blank wall. This problem
climbs the wall above the sharp, threatening, ankle height ledge,
left of The Blue Meanie. Climb up and make a difficult move
left to a jug. Finish staight up, with a long move to another
jug. Bold.
32. Unamed 6b* J. Christie 1990s
Start 1metre left of The Blue Meanie, heading directly for a
large undercling pinch. Use this to boldly go where few have
gone before!
33. The Blue Meanie 5c***
This problem climbs the wall above the slabby rock at the top
of the path. Start at a jug and use one of 2 or 3 different
ways to gain an inset sloper below a bulge. Finish leftwards
on good jugs. A little unnerving, spotter useful.
34. PTO 5a*
Climb the short wall and bulge a few metres left of the descent
route, with a long reach from an undercut.
Warm Up Wall (B Boulder)
The wall down and to the right of the A Boulder (below Home
Rule Boulder) has a vertical wall which faces down the Clyde.
This has good problems and is also an excellent spot for warming
up circuits.
35. Left Edge 4a*
Climb the stepped left edge of the wall.
36. Friday's Fill 4a**
The crack on the left is awkward to start and often a little
wet, but has an exellent finish. Very popular with beginners.
37. Friar's Mantle 5b***
The obvious stepped central line has one tricky move on slopers.
Brilliant!
38. Ungava 5a*
The wall just right of Friar's Mantle, using a small sidepull,
but not the right edge.
39. Right Edge 4c*
Layback up the right arete of the wall.
40. Low Traverse 6a*
Traverse from right to left just above the ground with some
technical moves.
Home Rule Boulder (C Boulder)
This sits on top of the B boulder and is characterised by a
smooth, graffiti covered wall, facing Dumbarton. The descent
is by the arete facing the castle (The Beast). Routes are described
from left to right, starting with the descent.
41. The Beast 4b
This is the arete facing the castle, climbed on the left hand
side, and then reversed.
42. The Brute 5a
The wall just right of the arete is gained from the smaller
of 2 rocks below the boulder.
43. Valkyrie 5a
Climb the shallow corner above the 2 rocks and finish up the
slab.
44. Pas Encore 5b*
A good problem, if a bit dirty. Climb the strenuous bulge above
the larger rock and finish up the slab.
45. Crimp! 6a* Stephen Richardson 2000
Start below the obvious jutting nose. From the right side of
the larger rock, gain a slot hold under the roof. Climb straight
up, just left of the arete and use a flat hold and small crimp
on the slab to pull over with difficulty.
46. More Chicken 6c (Font 7a)* Dave MacLeod 1999
An eliminate problem climbing the actual arete left of Head
Butt, Starting as for the previous problem. From the slot hold,
Use a tiny edge on the nose to slap desperately up the edge
of the nose. Holds to the left are out of bounds. Good if brushed,
poor if not!
47. Head Butt 6c (Font 7a) Andy Gallagher 1993
Start at Pas Encore, but traverse right, and pull round into
the corner on the right of the nose. Slap awkwarly up this (head
used on the first ascent!) to finish. Give it a brush first.
The wall between this problem and Mugsy has now been climbed,
with a big slap to gain the slopey ledge, finishing up the difficult
wall above without using holds on Mugsy (Malky, Font 7b, Dave
MacLeod 2000).
48. Mugsy 6c (Font 7a)*** Dave Cuthbertson 1980s
The classic at the grade. Start at a good jug (good for one
arm pull ups!) on the lip of the cave. Jump for a sloping hold
and use a left foot heel hook to gain an exellent incut. Finish
rightwards into Mestizo or better still, leftwards on small
edges (6b).
49. Mugsy Traverse 6c (Font 7b)*** Andy Gallagher 1993
Start at the left of the cave. Traverse the handrail in the
roof rightwards and use a heel/toe lock to move up into Mugsy,
finishing up this. To extend the fun even more, this problem
can be started from a line of good holds behind the rocks in
the depths of the cave. Linking this start into the left hand
finish to Mugsy ups the grade to 7b+ (or an F8a route!).
50. Mestizo 6a*** Gary Latter 1985
A brilliant problem climbing the left arete of the graffiti
covered wall. Climb the arete to a good hold and move left on
edges. A thin but exellent rockover leads to the easy groove
and the top. Good landing.
51. Mestizo Sit Start 6c (Font 7a+)** Dave MacLeod 2000
Start at sidepulls and make two slaps to gain the handrail.
Use heelhooks to make Improbable moves on poor holds, and finish
up Mestizo. Mat and spotter useful.
52. Mestizo Traverse 6c (Font 7b)** Andy Gallagher 1997
Start as for the Mugsy Traverse, but continue along the handrail
to the arete. A hard move allows a finish up Mestizo.
53. Knowledge is Power 6c (Font 7b/7b+)** Dave MacLeod
1998
A good, sustained problem. Start at 2 small crimps in the roof
of the cave, below the starting jug of Mugsy. Make a desperate
slap and swing onto the jug, then follow the Mestizo Traverse
to the hard move on the arete. Now reverse the Home Rule Low
Traverse and Finish up Home Rule. Now take a couple of days
rest!
54. Physical Graffiti E5 6b** Gary Latter 1985
Bold and fingery climbing up the left side of the smooth wall,
moving slightly rightwards near the top. Commiting if you climb
past the good hold at half height.
The first few moves up to the good hold is a worthwhile 6a problem
in its own right.
55. Home Rule 6a**
Climb the right side of the wall to the left end of a handrail.
Move right along this and finish past the jammed block. A long
rockover, which is a little bit harder for the short. Awkward
landing. The dirty direct finish is also 6a.
56. Home Rule High Traverse 6a**
Fingery, sustained and technical (i.e. hard!). Start up Home
Rule and traverse left along a line of crimps and make a perplexing
move to gain Mestizo. Finish up this.
57. Home Rule Low Traverse 6c (Font 7a)* Andy Gallagher
1995
From the arete right of Home Rule, traverse left with increasing
difficulty to a cross through move to gain Mestizo (crux). Finish
up this. Thin Climbing.
58. Bob's Problem 6a* Robert Ewen 2000
Start just left of Presence on the horizontal edge. Pull up
and catch the sloper beside the arete then continue to the handrail.
59. Presence 5c*
Climb the bold arete on the right of the graffiti covered wall,
with one scary move to reach the handrail. Will your spotter
have the courage to catch you if you fall!
60. Route Royale E3 5c**
An intimidating trip across the wall to the right of Presence.
The climbing is never hard or commiting, but is technical and
very bold. Start on the edge of the platform. Traverse right
across the wall past a groove and move up right to the arete.
Rock over into a niche on the arete and continue easily to the
top. The traverse can also be gained from directly below (6a).
61. Royal Arete 6a Andy Gallagher 1996
Climb the blunt arete directly to join Route Royale near the
top. Bold.
62. The Whip E2 5b**
Climb the right side of the blunt arete until it is possible
to use good holds to move rightwards into the obvious shallow
groove. Climb this until a scary, thin move left leads to ledges
and the top. Garuanteed to raise the pulse! Especially if you
take the direct finish over the bulge (5c).
63. Unamed 6b*
Start hanging from a good hold in the roof under the start of
The Whip (or sitting down on the left). Move to a hold on the
lip, then slap right to a huge and good sidepull. Use this to
climb the small arete, and pull over on small crimps.
64. The Switch 5a Brian Shields 1960s
A left slanting line between The Whip and Valhalla. 5b if finished
by the bulge on the right. The first ascent was done in Vibrams!
65. Valhalla HVS 4c*
The shallow fault above the junction of the two boulders. Brige
up the gap and use a good jug to pull onto the wall. Climb the
groove to a technical exit. Another very bold problem.
66. The Beauty 5a
Climb the bulging wall just left of the descent arete.
Sucker's Boulder (D Boulder)
The boulder to the right of the Home Rule Boulder. The problems
are described from left to right, starting on the smooth overhanging
wall facing the Distillery.
67. Unamed 6a* John Watson 2000
Start sitting down at the left arete of the smooth wall (at
the entrance to the cave). Climb up left into the darkness and
through the gap above without putting your back on the other
boulder.
68. P.S. 5a
Awkward clambering up the cleft between the C and D boulders.
69. Unamed 6a Andy Gallagher 1992
Start just left of Toto and climb direct to the jug, using a
couple of small edges.
70. Toto 6a*** Gary Latter 1985
Another Dumbarton classic not to be missed. Origionally given
6b, but much easier than many of the 6as! Climb the left slanting
crack, then use a high pinch to gain the jug on the left. Finish
here or climb the right hand finish at 6b. Every ascentionist
seems to use a different sequence!
71. Toto Sit Down Start 6b (Font 7a+)** Cameron Phair
1994
Start 3 metres to the right of Toto in a crossed over position.
Follow the line of edges leftwards and finish up Toto. Sustained,
but no stopper moves.
72. Toto Traverse 6c (Font 7a+) Andy Gallagher 1996
Start as for the sit down to Toto and follow this to the good
hold at the start of the crack. Make a very long reach left
(crux) and continue to finish up P.S.
73. The Shield 7a (Font 7b+)*** Malcolm Smith 1994
This hard testpiece climbs the obvious shield feature in the
centre of the wall. Desperately pull on the sidepulls and slap
for the top with the left or right hand, or both at the same
time! Pull awkwardly onto the ramp above and finish.The top
sloper is frustratingly hard to hold.
74. The Shield Sit Down Start 7a (Font 7c)** Dave Redpath
1997
Use the pocket and undercut to gain The Shield with great difficulty.
75. Shield Right Hand 6b/c* Neill Busby 1999
Use the good undercut at the base of the shield feature, and
a poor sidepull on the right to slap up for the sloping ramp
on the right. Move left and finish as for The Shield.
76. Power Pockets 6b*
At the right hand margin of the wall there are two shallow,
sharp finger pockets. Use these, and the small, square toe edge
to slap for a sloper on the lip and pull over.6b/c if done foot
off. A true "one move wonder".
77. Power Pockets Sit Start 7a (Font 7b+)* Dave MacLeod
2000
Use the two parallel sloping edges (foot in pocket to the right)
to desperately gain the power pockets.
78. Unamed 7a (Font 7b)* Dave Redpath 1998
A hard eliminate. Use the left hand power pocket and a pinch
on the left for hands, and the square foothold and a tiny pocket
just above the ground. Make a desperate blind slap for a tiny
edge above the Power Pockets sloper (the one with a tiny pocket
just above it) and pull over.
79. Railing 6a** Michael Conner 1999
Start up large pockets on the blunt arete and follow a hand
traverse leftwards along the lip, to finish up The Shield. Technical
footwork, high in the 6a grade.
80. Snooker Shelf 5a**
Start at the right end of the face. Climb up onto the big left
slanting ramp and follow it without much difficulty to its end
and finish up a groove. Much better than it appears.
81. Kneebar 6a* Andy Gallagher 1999
An unusual problem! A sit start to snooker shelf (sort of),
starting at a big sidepull. Pull on and use a bizarre kneebar
to climb past slopers to snooker shelf.
82. Mosca 4a
The left arete of the slab above the overhanging wall, approached
from the rear side of the boulder. Dirty.
83. Antimatter 5b
An eliminate with thin smearing up the slab left of Suckers.
Has benefitted from a recent wire brushing.
84. Sucker's Slab 5b* Neil Macniven 1960s
A friction problem on tiny holds up the centre of the slab.
85. Volpone 4a*
The thin crack gives a good problem, but with the obligatory
poor landing.
BNI Boulder (E Boulder)
This is the tall boulder to the right, partially sitting on
top of the D and F boulders. Some of the problems here really
do feel like routes, and would not forgive a fall. The problems
are described left to right, starting at the cave path between
the D and F boulders.
86. Chahala 5c**
This steep problem starts just right of Snooker Shelf, on the
roof of the cave, below a trio of good incuts. Jump to the first,
then campus upwards to the top one. Reach right and pull round
the arete onto the ledge.
87. Harvester of Eyes 4a
The next four problems start from the ledge on top of the F
boulder, which is reached by squeezing up through the gap right
of Juggie, on the F boulder.This problem climbs the open groove
on the left of this face.
88. Astronomy 3b
The ribs and grooves in the centre of the face are straightforward,
and give the best descent route from this boulder.
89. Deo Gratis 5b*
The wall left of the arete is straightforward, apart from one
hard, and bold move to stand on a tiny foothold.
90. Imposter Arete 4c**
The high arete on the left of the huge slab gives exellent,
steady climbing on small, but good holds.
91. B.N.I. Direct 5c**
Traverse across the slab to the sharp foothold as for BNI, then
move up and left, and finish easily up the centre of the slab.
92. B.N.I. 5c*** Neil Macniven 1960s
Start at the base of Imposter arete and traverse across the
slab to the obvious good foothold. Make a difficult move to
swing right onto a small flake, then continue up and right to
finish up Pendulum. Delicate and committing.
93. Very Ape 6b Dave MacLeod 1998
Start up the squeeze descent route, then pull out right on big
undercuts. Reach over the lip to a small finger hold and pullover
onto the BNI slab using mono pockets. Finish up B.N.I. Direct.
94. B.N.I. Direct Start 6c/7a (Font 7b+)* Malcolm Smith
1994
Use two small crimps on the very base of the slab to make ahard
reach to the sharp hold above on the slab. Finish up BNI. Desperate
for the short.
95. The Elbow basher 6c (Font 7b+)** Dave MacLeod 1997
A brutal traverse across the cave under the slab. Start spanned
between a big flat edge on the left, and an incut crimp on the
right. Use a small pinch to reach undercuts at the top of a
tiny slab. Traverse these rightwards round the corner with difficulty
(bruised shins Likely). In a very cramped position, reach sidepulls
(head jam useful!) and use these to finish up the crack of Good
Nicks. Could just as easily have been called the head or shin
basher!
96. Good Nicks 6a*** Willie Todd 1978
The testpiece at this grade. Start underneath the right arete
of the BNI slab. Climb the short finger crack to its top, then
make a difficult span right to an edge on the arete. A brilliant
move to match the edge permits a swing round to the small flake
on the slab. Finish up BNI. Jumping from the arete is fine,
but try not to fall backwards! The sit start to the crack is
6b.
97. Pedulum 4c***
Exellent climbing up the big flake right of the arete. Pull
onto a ledge and climb the flake steeply on jugs. Use the block
at its top to pull round onto the slab. Pause for a minute to
take in the situation (are you bouldering or soloing!) then
rockover to reach the top. Popular, but still deserves more
attention. It is possible to finish right, into the black V-groove.
The old guide gives this variation 5a, but frightening 5c is
more appropriate! Span right from the top of the flake.
98. Nadjilation E6 6b** Dave MacLeod 1998
This intimidating route climbs the grossly overhanging wall
round to the right of Pendulum. Start standing on the razor
sharp boulder under the right hand side of the wall. Climb the
wall aggressively, using a fin hold to make a big lunge to the
top (crux). Only a few moves, but falling off could be catatstrophic!
99. Jump **
A more exciting (and rapid) descent of the BNI boulder. Jump
from the top of Nadjilation to ledges on the main face.
100. Jump II ***
Not as long as the above problem, but much scarier! Jump across
the gap between the D and E boulders to the top of Suckers Slab.
If you actually enjoyed this, then proceed to the next problem!
101. Jump Challenge III***
Remains unclimbed, but for how long? Reverse Jump (ie dyno direct
to the top of Nadjilation!). Other exellent jump challenges
in this vicinity include the jump from the slabby main face
to the top of the arete right of Pendulum, or from the top of
Pendulum to "Fever Pitch" on the main face.
F Boulder
This is the boulder to the right of the D Boulder, underneath
the BNI Boulder. It features a very steep, smooth wall facing
Dumbarton, and a slabby face looking down the Clyde. This boulder
has some of Dumby's (and Scotland's) hardest problems. The problems
are described from left to right, starting at the cave between
the D and F boulders.
102. Skint Knuckles 5b*
Start at the entrance to the cave and use a good sidpull on
the right wall to layback rightwards until it is possible to
pull over on to the big ledge.
103. Slap Happy 6c** Andy Gallagher 1993
This problem, along with Toto, must be the most frequently attempted
(and failed on) problems at Dumby. From the good hold on the
left of the overhanging wall, reach the slopey edge and make
a hard move to the top edge. Reaching it is easy, but holding
it is a different story. If you cant hold it, carry on flying
to the top ledge in one move, which is easier, even though it
feels harder.
104. In Bloom 6c (Font 7c)*** Dave MacLeod 1998
This hard and powerful problem is now a classic testpiece, requiring
an aggressive approach. Start at Slap Happy and traverse right
along the poor, sloping handrail and span out into Pongo. Finish
up Pongo.
105. Pongo 6b***
Climb the grossly overhanging crack on the right of the wall,
starting by swinging in from the left. A hard move at mid height
is eased by a foothook on the right arete. Classic!
106. Pongo Sit Start 7a (Font 8a)*** Malcolm Smith 1998
Scotland's hardest boulder problem. From two holds below the
start of the crack, 6b moves lead to two frustratingly desperate
moves off the jammed block. If you get past this, cruise to
the top of Pongo and celebrate!
107. Unamed 6b Andy Gallagher 1990s
The arete right of Pongo, climbed on the overhanging side.
108. Sorcerers Slab 5a
this problem climbs the left side of the slab round to the right,
on the other side of the large bush.
109. Magic Wand 5b
Climb straight up from the start of Sorcerers Slab.
110. Slant 5b
This climbs the small, steep groove just right again.
111. Nemesis 5b*
This problem climbs the bulging arete and easy angled groove
on the left of the west face of the boulder. Use a poor finger
jam in a small crack to slap up left to a jug and pull over
to finish up the easy groove.
112. Narcosis 5b*
Rather blind climbing up the wall to the right of Nemesis. A
sitting start from the huge, hidden undercut is 6a.
113. Lunik 5b**
A good technical problem which climbs the shallow groove in
the centre of the face. Use a hidden incut to pull into the
groove, then continue directly to finish up the technical arete.
114. Cheddar Direct 4b***
An excellent varied problem, with a good landing. Start at a
blunt arete with a little niche in it. Climb past this until
standing on the slab above. Move rightwards across the slab
to finish.
115. Hard Cheddar 5c***
Start at the same point as Cheddar Direct, but follow holds
on the lip of the hanging rib rightwards to finish up Juggie.
116. Juggie 4c
Steep climbing up the arete just left of the descent passage
leads to good jugs.
117. Consolidated 6b (Font 7b+)*** Andy Gallagher 1994
A classic not to be missed by any dedicated boulderer. Sustained
and technical, but with no hard moves. An eliminate problem
which is somewhat difficult to describe, but a good rule of
thumb is if you think it might be too high, it probably is!
Start at the arete just left of Nemesis on a sidepull and undercut.
Traverse right on small holds on the lip and then drop down
to better holds. Follow the line of parallel holds/ramps to
the blunt arete of Cheddar Direct.
Pause here for a moment on a upside down rest on a toe hook,
then layback past the niche and continue right past a complex
sequence on holds below the lip to reach triangular hold below
the arete of Juggie. Finish up the arete, which will now feel
rather uphill!
118. Consolidated Extension 6b (Font 7c)*** Andy Gallagher
1995
an extension to the above traverse which is even more sustained.
Follow the previous problem to the triangular hold, then continue
dynamically rightwards on sidepulls to finish on jugs at the
descent route.
119. The 8b Traverse 6c (Font 7c)** Dave MacLeod 1998
A harder, eliminate finish to the extension. From the triangular
hold, use a long thin crimp and a further small crimp only to
the right to reach the descent route.
G Boulders
This is the trio of small boulders below the F Boulder. All
three problems climb the seaward face of the largest central
boulder.
120. Short Sight 4a
Climb the short east facing wall. Green.
121. Short Notice 5b
The bulging nose of rock facing Dumbarton. Start on the slab
and make an interesting move using a hidden sidepull to finish.
Don't bounce backwards if you fall off!
122. Long Reach 5c
Climb the scooped wall to the right (facing the Clyde), avoiding
using the arete on the right. Eliminate.
The Sea Boulder (H Boulder)
The obvious lone boulder on the shore has several good problems
in the easier grades and is also a good spot to warm up. The
seaward face is tidal (just) and its base is finely polished
by the action of the sea (as if Dumby was'nt polished enough!).
Problems are described left to right, starting at the side facing
Dumbarton.
123. White Streak 6a*
An eliminate problem climbing the narrow wall between the right
arete and the short crack. Climb the wall using some very sharp
holds, without using the aretes to either side.
124. Steptoe 4c*
Climb the right arete without using the lump of lead.
125. Red Streak 5c
Climb the wall just right of the arete, avoiding the lump of
lead hold, and holds on Chowbok.
126. Chowbok 4c**
Climb the centre of the seaward face, via a thin crack.
127. Erewhon 5c**
The right arete of the seaward face is very smeary and polished
to start, but easy to finish on good holds.
128. Commercial Route 4c**
The corner to the right of the arete, finishing rightwards.
129. Wednesday Wall 4c
Climb the technical slab just to the right of the corner.
130. Unamed 6b** Mike Rudden 2000
This is an exellent sitting start to Silvers route, starting
on poor slopey opposing sidepulls, and a heelhook.
131. Silver's Route 4c*
Use sidepulls to pull onto the slab and finish more easily.
132. Gardner's Girdle 5a***
An excellent, exciting traverse when the tide is in. Also good
for warming up. Watch out for the pull round past Erewhon, it
seems to catch people out with amusing regularity!
Everdry Wall 1
The small overhanging wall below Appliance of Violence on the
main face gives some everdry bouldering, but it is not as good
as it looks and is rarely used. However, the wall below Longbow
is good for warming up.
Everdry Wall 2
The overhanging wall left of Benny's Route is also everdry,
and gives good shelter from the (frequent) rain. This wall is
brilliant for doing stamina circuits, which can be tailored
to the correct difficulty by missing out holds or sections.
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