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Dave
MacLeod on Erewhon, 5c
pic: Richard McGhee |
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Dave
MacLeod on Erewhon, 5c
pic: Richard McGhee |
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Dave
MacLeod on Commercial Route, 4c
pic: Richard McGhee |
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Richard
McGhee on Commercial Route, 4c
pic: Dave MacLeod |
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Dave
MacLeod on Silver's Route, Sit Start, 6b
pic: Richard McGhee |
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| Boulders |
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The Sea Boulder (H Boulder)
The obvious lone boulder on the shore has several good problems
in the easier grades and is also a good spot to warm up. The
seaward face is tidal (just) and its base is finely polished
by the action of the sea (as if Dumby wasn't polished enough!).
Problems are described left to right, starting at the side facing
Dumbarton.
123. White Streak 6a*
An eliminate problem climbing the narrow wall between the right
arete and the short crack. Climb the wall using some very sharp
holds, without using the aretes to either side.
124. Steptoe 4c*
Climb the right arete without using the lump of lead.
125. Red Streak 5c
Climb the wall just right of the arete, avoiding the lump of
lead hold, and holds on Chowbok.
126. Chowbok 4c**
Climb the centre of the seaward face, via a thin crack.
127. Erewhon 5c**
The right arete of the seaward face is very smeary and polished
to start, but easy to finish on good holds.
128. Commercial Route 4c**
The corner to the right of the arete, finishing rightwards.
129. Wednesday Wall 4c
Climb the technical slab just to the right of the corner.
130. Unamed 6b** Mike Rudden 2000
This is an excellent sitting start to Silvers route, starting
on poor slopey opposing sidepulls, and a heelhook.
131. Silver's Route 4c*
Use sidepulls to pull onto the slab and finish more easily.
132. Gardner's Girdle 5a***
An excellent, exciting traverse when the tide is in. Also good
for warming up. Watch out for the pull round past Erewhon, it
seems to catch people out with amusing regularity!
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