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Claire
Geary on Snooker Shelf, 5a
pic: Dave MacLeod |
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| Boulders |
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Sucker's Boulder (D Boulder)
The boulder to the right of the Home Rule Boulder. The problems
are described from left to right, starting on the smooth overhanging
wall facing the distillery.
67. Unamed 6a* John Watson 2000
Start sitting down at the left arete of the smooth wall (at
the entrance to the cave). Climb up left into the darkness and
through the gap above without putting your back on the other
boulder.
68. P.S. 5a
Awkward clambering up the cleft between the C and D boulders.
69. Unamed 6a Andy Gallagher 1992
Start just left of Toto and climb direct to the jug using a
couple of small edges.
70. Toto 6a*** Gary Latter 1985
Another Dumbarton classic not to be missed. Origionally given
6b, but much easier than many of the 6as! Climb the left slanting
crack, then use a high pinch to gain the jug on the left. Finish
here or climb the right hand finish at 6b. Every ascentionist
seems to use a different sequence!
71. Toto Sit Down Start 6b (Font 7a+)** Cameron Phair
1994
Start three metres to the right of Toto in a crossed over position.
Follow the line of edges leftwards and finish up Toto. Sustained
but no stopper moves.
72. Toto Traverse 6c (Font 7a+) Andy Gallagher 1996
Start as for the sit down to Toto and follow this to the good
hold at the start of the crack. Make a very long reach left
(crux) and continue to finish up P.S.
73. The Shield 7a (Font 7b+)*** Malcolm Smith 1994
This hard testpiece climbs the obvious shield feature in the
centre of the wall. Desperately pull on the sidepulls and slap
for the top with the left or right hand, or both at the same
time! Pull awkwardly onto the ramp above and finish.The top
sloper is frustratingly hard to hold.
74. The Shield Sit Down Start 7a (Font 7c)** Dave Redpath
1997
Use the pocket and undercut to gain The Shield with great difficulty.
75. Shield Right Hand 6b/c* Neill Busby 1999
Use the good undercut at the base of the shield feature, and
a poor sidepull on the right to slap up for the sloping ramp
on the right. Move left and finish as for The Shield.
76. Power Pockets 6b*
At the right hand margin of the wall there are two shallow,
sharp finger pockets. Use these, and the small, square toe edge
to slap for a sloper on the lip and pull over.6b/c if done foot
off. A true "one move wonder".
77. Power Pockets Sit Start 7a (Font 7b+)* Dave MacLeod
2000
Use the two parallel sloping edges (foot in pocket to the right)
to desperately gain the power pockets.
78. Unamed 7a (Font 7b)* Dave Redpath 1998
A hard eliminate. Use the left hand power pocket and a pinch
on the left for hands, and the square foothold and a tiny pocket
just above the ground. Make a desperate blind slap for a tiny
edge above the Power Pockets sloper (the one with a tiny pocket
just above it) and pull over.
79. Railing 6a** Michael Conner 1999
Start up large pockets on the blunt arete and follow a hand
traverse leftwards along the lip, to finish up The Shield. Technical
footwork, high in the 6a grade. The rail has also been climbed
in its entirety at an even more sustained 6a.
80. Snooker Shelf 5a**
Start at the right end of the face. Climb up onto the big left
slanting ramp and follow it without much difficulty to its end
and finish up a groove. Much better than it appears.
81. Kneebar 6a* Andy Gallagher 1999
An unusual problem! A sit start to snooker shelf (sort of),
starting at a big sidepull. Pull on and use a bizarre kneebar
to climb past slopers to snooker shelf.
82. Mosca 4a
The left arete of the slab above the overhanging wall, approached
from the rear side of the boulder. Dirty.
83. Antimatter 5b
An eliminate with thin smearing up the slab left of Suckers.
Has benefitted from a recent wire brushing.
84. Sucker's Slab 5b* Neil Macniven 1960s
A friction problem on tiny holds up the centre of the slab.
85. Volpone 4a*
The thin crack gives a good problem, but with the obligatory
poor landing.
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