Boulders

Cutting Room Boulder

This is the large boulder just above The Crannog. It has a smooth leaning left wall and a protruding nose at the right end of this. Descend by the left arete of the uphill face. The problems are described clockwise from the descent.

1. Amphibian 4a* Dave MacLeod 2002
Start in the centre of the slabby wall facing down the glen. Climb the faint groove in the slab.

2. Lungfish 4a Dave MacLeod 2002
Climb the left side of the slab.

3. Scoff 5c (Font 6a)* Dave MacLeod 2002
This problem climbs the short overhanging wall facing The Crannog. Sit start at a jug (no feet on the boulder underneath). Crimp directly upwards to good holds on the shelf below the top.

4. Swap Meet 6c (Font 7b)** Dave MacLeod 2002
Start as for Scoff. Follow a line of small crimps below an overlap leftwards to gain a flat edge just round the corner (crux). Use heelhooks to gain and finish up The Nose.

5. The Nose 6a (Font 6a+)***
The excellent bulge to the left. Sit start on sidepulls and slap to slopers on the lip. Follow these leftwards to a good quartz hold and rockover. Harder since the loss of a good foothold.

6. Sweat Shop 6a (Font 6b)*
This problem is a variation on The Nose. Sit start using just the left hand sidepull and an incut hold in the roof and climb the nose.

7. No Sweat 6c (Font 7a+)* Dave MacLeod 2002
Start at the same point as Sweat Shop but make a long pull off the crimp to a pinch (thumb in pocket) on the left wall. Slap right into the Quartz jug on The Nose and finish.

8. The Cutting Room 6c (Font 7b+)*** Dave MacLeod 2002
This stunning problem climbs the centre of the overhanging wall giving hard fingery climbing. Sit start at a good sidepull. Move up to a long thin edge. Reach up and left to another edge then make a desperate slap to the sloping shelf above.

9. Project***
A left to right traverse of the overhanging wall will give desperate and technical climbing on a cold day.

10. Frogman 5c (Font 5) Dave MacLeod 2002
Climb the right side of the rounded slab facing uphill via a small finger pocket.

11. Sinker 5b Dave MacLeod 2002
Climb the left side of the rounded slab past slopers.