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Arguably, this is still the case - there are relatively few E8's
in Scotland and perhaps no E9's at all, wheras in England and Wales
they're all over the place. However, this belies a wealth of talent
which is typically reflected perhaps not so much in terms of grades
alone, but by some remarkable achievements in terms of climbing
style and, well, "substance" I suppose.
This last fortnight's activities in the higher E grades illustrate
my point, and there are clearly some awesomely talented rock climbers
roaming the glens at the moment.
First off (well, a bit more like on, off, on actually!) on the
sea cliffs north of Aberdeen Julian Lines has soloed Shere Khan
which weighs in at a thin and precarious E7 6c - that's French 8a
for those of you that are interested. My original source asserted
that this was a "deep water solo" but I hasten to add that another
insider reckons "high tide deep water solo" is more appropriate
terminology in this particular case. Just in case there was a rush
to repeat this amazing feat!
The crag where this route lies (Murdoch Head) is concave in nature,
with a tidal ledge at its base, so it seems fair to conclude a certain
amount of jumping/pushing/praying is required in the event of a
fall. Julian had already tested the water with a successful solo
ascent of the nearby Bagheera (E6 6c) a couple of weeks previously.
He also tested the water with an unsuccessful attempt! In my opinion,
Mr Lines has either got big balls or flippers. Maybe both. In any
case, this is surely the hardest solo ascent of a rock climb in
Scotland to date, unless anyone knows of anything else…
Moving swiftly on and still on the north east coast, but this time
at Peel's Slough near Portlethen, Tim Rankin has added another route
to his tally of short, sharp desperates. He has added what sounds
like essentially a direct version of his own route The Damned (E5
6b) from a couple of weeks back. His new route, which is as yet
unnamed, keeps on trucking straight up the thin crack line where
The Damned steps right, and weighs in at solid E6 6b. He tells me
it's perhaps not as technical as The Damned, but on smaller holds
and with only a skyhook to protect the crux. Sounds lovely.
Finally on the coast, at Doonies, Mike Reed tells me he repeated
Animosity which, although given E4 5c in the current NE Outcrops
guide, he reckons is more like a cerebrally challenging E5 6a. You
have been warned.
Moving west up Deeside and the big bad Dubh Loch has seen some
well impressive activity this last wee while. On Central Gully Wall,
that man Julian Lines has been at it again, this time with a rope
and partner in the shape of Tim Rankin. The pair made a very impressive
onsight ascent of The Origin of Species (E6/7 6b). This uncompromising
line follows the striking arete cutting directly through the Naked
Ape, itself a bold E5. I remember being told a spine-chilling story
by a witness to first ascentionist Paul Thorburn's early attempts
on the route, which included a hundred foot fall straight onto the
boulders in the gully below. Obviously a hard man to keep down that
Mr Thorburn, as he simply stood up, brushed himself off and got
back on the route!
Julian's flash of the crux pitch adds to a perhaps unparalleled
list of hard ground-up, onsight ascents on Cairngorm granite, including
many first ascents, especially on slabs. The grade of Origin of
Species remains uncertain; Gary Latter thought it E7, although both
Julian and Tim think E6 is more the score, provided you're happy
falling a fair way onto small RP's. Mind you, if you're used to
making onsight solo first ascents of E6 slabs, you're probably not
that worried about falling off anyway…
A mere day later and the Gully Wall was witness to yet more inspired
climbing, this time from the illustrious Mike Reed and his partner
Pete Benson. Upon arriving at the crag to find a party in-situ on
their intended route the pair took it upon themselves to attack
the "compelling" crack and groove in the hanging arete halfway between
The Wicker Man and Vertigo Wall. Benson dispatched the first easy
pitch before Mike launched into what was obviously going to be hard
unknown territory in the groove above. He wasn't disappointed and
eventually succeeded with a couple of cleaning rests to produce
The Nullifidian at E5 6b, a fine onsight effort. Rather than explore
the delights of the overhanging slime factory above the second pitch
they chose to abseil back to the gully and left it at that. However,
as Mike says, "if you think you're the Man from Atlantis…"
Big news at Polney Crag, Dunkeld, is Dave MacLeod's onsight flash
of Tim Rankin's recent addition Stolen Ivy, which confirms the route's
E7 grade. Having watched Gordon Lennox trying the line on a previous
visit Dave was attracted to the route and he is obviously extremely
pleased with his ascent. He does tell me however that he "sketched
around quite a bit" before working out a suitable combination for
the crux moves! This is yet another highly impressive achievement
from very much the "man of the moment" in Scottish climbing.
Also at Polney, Stephen Richardson onsighted The Sharp End (E6
7A). He was full of praise for the route, though he notes that E5
6b may be a more realistic grade. However, would be suitors take
note he still found it "very bold and technical" with some nasty
fall potential. It certainly won't be on my E5 tick list!
Over in the west now, on Skye and Pete Benson with Findlay Bennet
have added a couple of cracking looking lines to Poverty Point at
Neist. The pair climbed both the big obvious crack lines on the
so far unclimbed wall on the right side of the obvious promontory
(looking out). The left hand crack gave Fight Club, a burly E3 6a
jamming tussle, while the right hand one proved a bit more meaty
and drew blood to become American Vampire at E4 6a (yo-yoed). Both
are stunning big pitches with excellent protection and very accessible.
On Mull, local man Colin Moody has added to his steady stream of
discoveries with Baby Kissing Tour (E1 5a/b) at Balmeanach, which
takes a line between Muir Sans Spit and the corner to its right.
Strange route name, Colin, presumably a strange route as well?
Paul Woodhouse and Keith Archer had a productive trip out west
recently with a whole crop of routes at Geodha Mor on Bearneraigh.
All the routes are easily accessible, with the best areas being
an 18m wall of superb and well-cracked rock about 100 metres north
of the main geo. Pick of the bunch would seem to be Tobson's Choice
and The Struggler (both HVS 5a) and Will the Real Eric Jones Please
Stand Up (again HVS 5a), the latter described as "a real gritsone
classic!" Hmmmm, that has certain connotations that does…
And finally, at Dumbarton Rock, Stephen Richardson has repeated
Trick of the Vale (E7 6c) after practice on a top rope, making the
probable third ascent. Despite failing to link the moves on a rope,
the added impetus of imminent pain and injury were enough to ensure
Stephen success on the headpoint. Well merciful heavens, thank the
Lord for that.
And that's it, there you have it. Hope you're all having fun. I'm
off to Peru for some ledge shuffling and snow plodding.
Cheers,
Guy
5/7/2001
If you have any news, please send it to newsandreports@scottishoutdoors.com
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