This translation of the popular German guide to the best classics of the Dolomites is a well-presented and highly useful book if planning a venture in the Dolomites. It’s high quality photos allow an insight into both the style of Dolomitic climbing in general and also the individual areas and classic routes themselves. Although best used as companion to the more detailed guidebooks for the area, the descriptions contain all the necessary information required for each climb.

>> The magnificent tower of the Cima Grande See larger pic

The information is well laid out, logically presented and easy to read. Each of the 94 descriptions features a photo of the cliff, some essential information about approaches and descents and a simple and clear topo diagram, which tends to be of greater use than a detailed pitch by pitch description in the Dolomites. In addition, the authors have added an enthusiastic short introduction to each climb, detailing the route’s attractions and pleasures. In fact, the authors’ enthusiasm for the Dolomites shines through in the whole book. Attention to detail is carefully balanced with simplicity and clarity in the topos and additional diagrams for the more complicated descent routes avoid the vague ambiguity of descriptions in other guides.

The book is aimed at a broad range of climbers, containing routes of UIAA III through to VII (Diff to E2/3 5c), though it bizarrely features an F8a sport route on the front cover! The authors make clear that their emphasis is on pointing the climber in the direction of the most enjoyable day out possible, rather than at the hardest challenges.

The Dolomitic towers are unique mountains, and thus the logistics of a day out in the Dolomites is a little different from that of other areas. The long steep and technical rock climbs (some of which are comparable to the major alpine faces) require some careful thought as to appropriate clothing, equipment and time management. The book deals a little with logistics but more would be helpful, especially given that the author’s intention is to guide us to "epic free" enjoyment of the long and often committing climbs in the book.

The book is of use to both a first-time visitor and to regulars as it carries us through a large number of classics from every region. A map is provided alongside a route list grouped by grade, to allow you to hatch a plan for a tour around different areas. However, the map is a little difficult to read and no general information on travelling in the Dolomites without a car is given.

The book is guaranteed to inspire and inform and purchasing it before a trip to the Dolomites (in conjunction with the standard guidebook) will ensure that you aim yourself at the true classics, according to your taste and ability and that you don’t miss out on any hidden gems. Just don’t do what I did and wait till you come back from a Dolomites trip to get this book, you’ll only have to go straight back!

Dave MacLeod

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Annette Kohler, Norbert Memmel. (Baton Wicks 1999. 216pp. £16.99, ISBN 1-898573-34-4)